Heat and Barefeet

HEAT.

I moved from the crazy busy streets of Bangkok up North about 100 km yesterday to a town called Kanchanaburi, home of the Bridge Over the River Kwai (some of you may have heard of this due to a book and movie by the same name-- it is a part of a huge railway built by the Japanese during WWII. It is mostly famous for the backbreaking labor conditions, which caused the deaths of numerous Allied PoWs and local workers during WWII). It is extremely HOT in Kanchanaburi. The heat is undeniable, climbing effortlessly to 100+ today as I wandered the streets, preemptively tracing out the path in front of me to maximize my shade-time. The moist air and strong sun rays make you SWEAT, I mean really sweat, and the cold shower back at one's guesthouse proves a heavenly refuge from the warmth.

Despite today's heat, I have greatly enjoyed my short time in Kan-buri (as it is referred to in short). It is a welcome respite from the business of Bangkok. The air is far fresher and the tourists far fewer. With this, of course, comes the stares of small children and the schoolkids practicing out their "hello," and "where you from's" on you. In my experiences travelling, this attention is endearing when in a good mood, and exhausting when all you want is to blend in, relax, and be any old person in town. Today it was fine, however, and reminded me how I am really embarking on something new.

There is so much to say right now that I don't know where to begin. This may be fairly stream-of-conscious so be prepared. I'll start with the most recent.

After exploring Kanburi today, viewing the museum for the Bridge Over the River Kwai, and actually heading to the bridge (filled with tourists of all backgrounds- even Thai- dawning their fannypacks and cameras), I headed for the ice cream/ coffee shop I noticed yesterday. The place is called "Famous Coffee," and attracted my attention due to 1) ice cream, 2) air-conditioning, and 3) the smiling face of the man behind the counter.

In my overheated state, I desperately craved an iced drink, yet feared the repercussion of drinking ice which may not be safe (something that could potentially lead to an incident much like my Mexican parasite-amoeba episode. I therefore stumbled through my Thai phrase book asking the man behind the counter if the ice was "clean," "for drinking," or "boiled." This absolutely confused him. He had no idea why this foreign person wanted an ice tea that was boiled. Boiling the ice would defeat the purpose of the whole "iced" aspect. As we stumbled around for about 5 minutes both in total confusion, but not wanting to give up, I hit a wall where I felt that type of confusion and misunderstanding that can lead to tears. All over some stupid ice. As I suddenly felt alone and very much like a foreigner, the coffee man smiled. I followed suit, smiling back. We laughed at the ridiculousness of this situation and our fumblings.

What almost caused a breakdown, instead ended up as a breakthrough (Coro-speak...), as I ended up sticking around the coffee shop for 2 hours, meeting Aek's (the barista's) wife Nong Lek, their son Nong Am, and the local police officer, Kui, who has a sister living in San Francisco. They are a incredibly cool bunch of people. It turns out Aek and Nong Lek just opened this little cafe about 2 months ago. They're from a smaller town close to Kanburi, but now live above the coffee shop. The best part of the place is their ice cream display, which looks much like that in any American ice cream shop, but has a scale in front of it. When I asked why, Aek told me it was to encourage the skinny people to buy ice cream. It dawned on me that this could only be a viable business strategy in Thailand (NOT the U.S. (see also: obesity epidemic))...

A word on Thai food: delicious. A few more words: I have realized some of this may be due to a key ingredient I didn't recognize before: sugar.

Some interesting observations:

• you know how in Thai restaurants you have the option of taking off your shoes? That is because it is a common practice here to take your shoes off before entering any household, some stores, and most other places, especially wats (temples) (i.e. I am barefoot in this internet cafe). The feet are considered very dirty. It is a show of disrespect and totally rude to point to or touch someone with your feet. In wats, you must sit with your feet facing away from the buddha.
• plants beautifying the sidewalk here differ from those in the U.S. in that they are "potted" in water. It is all water lilies and the like-- very beautiful.

Alrighty my dearies, off to go eat some ehan thai (thai food), hopefully some baah sot (fresh fish).

Puppies-

LK

Newness

As I often do when journaling in a new land, I record sights, sounds, smells, all the things that stand out for me enough to notice that it is really not the norm where I am from or in my own practices.

Without further adieu, here is my list as of today:

• Hippie-thaisters getting hair extension dreads sewn into their short hair on the touristy sidewalk of khao san road
• foodstands everywhere. fruit that is green, red, hairy, spikey, smelly, and delicious. As I write I munch on a large green guava-like thing, and yesterday consumed lychees (they are reddish-green on the outside and have a beautiful spikey thing going on), although one brit I met described them as "balls" to me, I ate this things called "sela" or some such. Delish. And much more
• lots of kids playing with remote-controlled cars. I feel I have returned to the 80s.
• Tuk-tuks. these are 3 wheeled taxis that buzz around the city leaving gobs of blue-black exhaust. the drivers enjoy sidling up next to you as you walk down the sidewalk and just trailing along, sometimes not saying anything, and just figuring you'll jump in when you feel so inclined. when you do not, they buzz off in a what feels like a fit of rage-- revving their engines and coughing the exhaust fumes in your direction.
• roaches. huge roaches. squished and sometimes not, crawling over the unsuspecting pedestrians flip-flopped foot.
• vendors. everywhere. every available sidewalk foot seems to be covered.
• snarkey shirt vendors. Not only have I seen the hilarious "good bush bad bush" shirt a few times, but yesterday I was moved to blurt out a laugh among a crowded sidewalk as I walked alone, when I saw a shirt with a dog mounting (to put it nicely) a bunny, and the word below stating simply, "wrong."
• 7-11s. They proliferate here. Unbelievable how many 7-11s I see. It's like Dunkin-donuts in boston, or starbucks in any other part of the states.
• which brings me to my next point: starbucks. I've spotted 3 so far. People seem to be enjoying their frappachinos. In this regard, I've also spotted a McDonalds, Haagan Das, Baskin Robbins (what?!), and the inevitable Pizza Hut and KFC, which seem to find their way to all parts of the world.
• more dogs with hair-dos and some jewelry around their necks.
• group work-out classes in Lamphini park. This is where a huge group of people (around 200) gather and follow instructors in any of the open spaces in the park as they do group aerobics and the like. It is incredible. There are quite a few men who partake in these classes, which I found surprising
• large cars. Unlike parts of europe where I have been, I was shocked to see SUVs here. Even the smaller cars are like our regular cars-- not compact at all, as I was expecting
• monks. they have shaved heads and wear orange. Just like the pictures.
• female versions of this. They wear white and I am still trying to figure out what they're all about.

Alrighty. All for now. I hope you enjoy this list. I'm off to start my day-- wander the city much like I did yesterday... who knows what I'll report in the near future.

:) L

Touchdown

Rightio. On the ground. I arrived about 4 hours ago to this HOT, busy, and colorful city. I'm sure there are many other things this city is, but I have yet to discover them at this point...

After an uneventful journey (other than a man who has issues screaming profanities when he falls asleep on an airplane and is sitting across the aisle from you), I have arrived safe and sound. I'm staying in what's known as the "tourist ghetto" of Bangkok, Khao San Road, where backpackers of all walks of life gather and share tidbits of their travels and their personalities, share a drink, and then go on their merry way.

Fruit vendors and pad thai stands line the cute little street where I am staying, and new arrivals with big bags seem to show up every few minutes here.

Regardless of the tourists rambling around these parts the newness is undeniable: new smells, sounds, language, tastes, and sights. It's exciting and beautiful and it's so clear to me, despite the stress of packing, the annoyances of immunizations, the numbness of my backside from extended plane rides, what moves people to explore. It's phenomenally exciting and energizing.

Off to attempt new friend making, try new foods, and eventually get a good nights rest.

LK

ps. and if you ever wondered if people in other countries dote on their dogs a la paris hilton, the answer is yes, as a dog with a hairdo greeted me upon entering the internet cafe.

Scrumdiddly-update-a-licious

Hello there cheekey monkees!

To you wise, hilarious, supportive, sarcastic, accomplished, and ambitious reader-friends: An update from LauraVille.

As many of you know, I am off to start a brand new adventure. This one takes me to Thailand, where I will be for at least 7 months, 6 of which will be spent working with a women's rights non-profit called the Mon Women's Organization (MWO), which is located on the Thai-Burma border. I am being sponsored by a fabulous, progressive, human-rights, grassroots, teach-a-man-to-fish organization called the American Jewish World Service (AJWS). They are an independent non-profit working to "alleviate poverty, hunger and disease among the people of the world regardless of race, religion or nationality." (www.ajws.org) They're incredibly active in promoting awareness and action to stop the horrors occurring in Darfur, as well as promoting women's rights globally, two subjects in which I have a great interest.

What's interesting for me in volunteering through this organization too is going abroad with the backing and name of a Jewish organization. Most of you know I feel far more culturally Jewish than deeply religious, and I am by no means the type of person who wishes to impose my religious beliefs on others (let alone a person who knows exactly what those religious beliefs are...). I do see quite a bit of benefit in being affiliated with a Jewish organization, however-- not so that I can teach the world about Abraham, Isaac, and their pals--but rather so I can be a Jew abroad and dispel the negative stereotypes much of the world has come to associate with Jews. Shockingly, a good number of friends I made in my most recent travels around Eastern Europe informed me that I was their first Jewish pal (I experienced this with both Eastern Euro locals as well as other travelers). I feel similarly about representing Jews as I do as representing Americans these days.. we aren't the most popular global citizens out there...

Back to Thailand. I'll be in a town called Sangkhlaburi, population 10,300, according to my Lonely Planet guidebook, in the Kanchanaburi province. It seems to be a small place, boasting one ATM and possibly an internet cafe...? What is fascinating about it is it's location close to the Burmese border, and the interesting mix of cultures, people, and languages that will ensue. Regardless, I am nervous for the small-town experience...

From what I know now, I will be assisting in some training of the interns in MWO's intern program. I will be specializing in project management and some English teaching. Maybe I can squeeze some theatre in there as well. There's always room for that.

My commitments as I embark on this journey are many: to respect the culture, to make meaningful and lasting friendships, to dive into learning the language, and to focus on some new documentation skills. Primarily I will be using a video camera to document my experiences, friendships, and the beauty I will inevitably encounter. I'm not sure where this camera will lead me, but I have a good feeling about it.

As for email contact, I will try my best. I do not want to take up excessive internet time at my host organization, and am not really sure what the internet rental situation is like over there. Therefore it is best to check on this (impersonal, I know) blog-o-sphere. My living situation is yet to be ironed out. Whether I will be spending time as a guest in a family house or in an apartment is yet to be determined.

In other news, I am nervous as all get out as the days count down...

Peace,
LK

ps. The trusty ol' 847-372-6484 cell will be retiring as of May 17, one day before I get on a jet-plane.

Countdown to leaving

Whew. So here I am, sitting in the suburbs, in a house that is large and comfortable and full of every amenity I could want: hot water, a fridge stocked with food, internet access, 3 TVs, a telephone in nearly every room, lights, clothes, blankets, rooms to spare, newspapers delivered to my door, the trash and recycling collected about 20 feet away from the side door, cars that talk to me, cell phones, heat, aircon, books, radio, CDs, all of it. It's all here, and it's all comfortable. And I'm about to bid it all adieu.

What is it about us that makes us want to up and leave the familiar? That makes us decide to jump into experiences that will scare us, make us uncomfortable, make us experience loneliness?

It seems to me that it's the possibility of growth. That, and the feeling that we are actually living, breathing things, walking around this earth with open eyes. At least that's what I'm telling myself.

I've been abroad many times before in my life: Spain for 9 months at the age of 16, Kenya and Tanzania for a spell during college, Mauritius in the summer of 2004, Eastern Europe this past fall... but the same emotions still flutter up into my stomach and mind before departing for any adventure. The fears, while they change each time, are still there regardless. This time they are mostly fears about the future, fears about leaving wonderful friends and family-- about all the amazing relationships that are a phone call, car ride, or simple walk away.

I also have silly fears. I fear that by meandering to some nether region and working on a remote cause will somehow detract from my route to "success," whatever that undefinable word seems to mean. I start to get scared that if I'm doing this now, then when will I go to grad school? When will I make money? When will I apply for that fulbright I always wanted? when will I take all those prereq grad school tests?

Regardless of these fears, I somehow seem to pull myself together, do a decent job of packing up my belongings and taking care of my goodbyes, and go out on that limb.

I'm scared, I'm nervous, I know that I could stay where I am and take comfort in all that I know. But somehow I won't do that. And that makes me feel alive.

Countdown: T minus 9 days.

Change is good

Ten inches gone... it is a new me: